老挝走笔：“万象无象”　僧人也可以吃肉喝酒--欢迎来到keji女孩的博客

中新社万象三月二十八日电题：穿越“凯旋门”

　　中新社记者周兆军

　　凯旋门，并非为法国所独有。在老挝首都万象的市中心，一座外形酷似法国凯旋门的建筑卓然而立。它像一位饱经沧桑的老人，向人们叙述着这里曾作为法国殖民地的坎坷往事。

　　这座建筑的官方名称是Patuxai，但人们却更愿意依据其外形称之为“凯旋门”。一九七五年，老挝人民民主共和国成立，市民的庆祝游行队伍从这里通过，此后它便被视为老挝的革命地标。

　　登上凯旋门，便可以俯瞰万象全貌。这是一座与高楼大厦“绝缘”的城市，放眼望去，市区内大都是四五层的低矮建筑，红色的屋顶掩映在葱茏的绿树之间，没有城市的喧嚣与繁华，反倒有田园般的宁静与惬意。

　　两天后，大湄公河次区域经济合作第三次领导人会议将在这里举行，在凯旋门前，中国、缅甸、泰国、越南、柬埔寨、老挝等与会六国的国旗迎风飘舞。各国的客人已陆续到来，不时有警车开道的车队呼啸而过。

　　但对于普通的万象人来说，生活依然故我。在万象街头，你不会看到行色匆匆的当地人，即便是在街边的破旧瓦房，依然可以嗅到咖啡的香味，悠闲的男女主人坐在老旧却开满鲜花的回廊，依着藤椅，啜着咖啡。这就是老挝节奏，缓慢的，却洋溢着令人羡慕的幸福感。

　　万象，这座城市的名称会让人联想很多，比如丛林，比如丛林里出没的一万只大象……但与邻居曼谷不同，万象城内只有大象的雕塑，很难找到一只活的大象。“万象无象”，很多中国游客来到这里都会哂笑自己的“望文生义”。

　　老挝是绿色的，百分之四十的国土都被森林覆盖。老挝是红色的，四处飘动的红色袈裟，同这个国度的天气一样火热。这是一个典型的佛教国家，五百多万的人口中，僧人就有三万多人。

　　老挝的僧人既不像印度、缅甸的苦行僧，背负着人世的苦恼和忏悔在烈日下诵经；也不像中国的僧人，用脱离凡俗的冷静面对一切。老挝僧人的脸上常带微笑，看上去随和、安详。

　　每天清晨六点，当老挝迎来第一缕曙光的时候，所有寺庙里的和尚都会跨出庙门，去接受人们的布施。人们布施的食物主要有糯米饭、与肉一起炒的蔬菜、饼干、咸菜和酒。在老挝，僧人是可以吃肉、喝酒的。

　　万象城寺庙据说有三百多座，几乎在每一条街道，都有金碧辉煌的寺庙。这里的佛像披着岁月沧桑，衬着绿地，显得古朴、优雅、纯净，同时又栩栩如生、笑容可掬，与人如此亲近。(完)

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